Florentine culinary tradition is…homemade

Nicoletta Arbusti

Thomas Harris writes in his celebrated book Hannibal, Chapter 27:

In Piazza Santo Spirito, near the fountain. They build a fire, and someone will have wine.

The church dark and locked at that late hour, noise and steamy food smells from Casalinga, the popular trattoria.

Sideways to Piazza Santo Spirito, in Florence, site to the namesake church, a masterpiece by Filippo Brunelleschi, in the Oltrarno district of San Frediano, defined by Lonely Planet as a must-see neighbourhood in the world, there is, in via dei Michelozzi, this historic restaurant of the city, the Trattoria La Casalinga. It is known and appreciated by the Florentine and cosmopolitan public, not just by Harris (who enjoys its delicacies whenever he happens to come to Florence) but also by many other writers, lawyers, doctors, merchants, students, workers, artisans, Florentine retirees and personalities known in Italy and worldwide. In short, an eclectic and extensive public.

They founded the trattoria in 1963, and today, as then, it is a Florentine-style establishment, or rather, in the ‘Sanfredianina‘ style: cheerful, light-hearted, where witty jokes abound next to caustic barbs, hearty laughter, entertaining characters, and customers who speak all languages. A historical point of reference for the inhabitants and those who work in the neighbourhood, where the meals are tasty, portions are generous, and food is traditional and genuine.

The owners are the highlight of this place. Their smiles and cheerful jokes communicate joy when they see you again, every time as if it has been a long time since we have seen each other and had possibly met a few days earlier. It is like being with family or longtime friends. I have felt this way since I encountered them over thirty-five years ago.

Paolo, Andrea, Cristina, Graziella, Ferruccio, Lina, Beppe, Fabio, and David: some are the current soul of the restaurant; others are part of its history but always remembered.

The history of La Casalinga began when two friends, Nello Bartarelli and Oliviero Carrai, from San Casciano Val di Pesa, parents of the current managers, decided to go down to Florence and start this adventure: their wives in the kitchen, preparing Chianti cuisine. They began in a single room, and over time they expanded into perimeter rooms, exactly as the place is today, an informal and fun environment then as now. In short, one of the latest, if not the last, historic Florentine restaurant managed entirely by a family.

The pillar in the kitchen is Graziella Carrai, who concocts the dishes with love and passion, respecting the typical Florentine cuisine and seasonality.

Every morning they do the shopping at the celebrated market of San Lorenzo. Then, the magic ensues with the mythical Casalinga crostini alla Fiorentina, the Rigatino Casereccio, the ribollita, pasta and beans, rice and cabbage minestrone, the shepherd pasta, all’uccelletto beans, boiled meat seasoned with fried onions, also called Francesina, steak, tripe, lamprey, Chianti stew, pork loin on the bone, peposo from Impruneta, and the list goes on.

Pure flavours, simple recipes, hearty dishes which, as Nello Bertarelli said, help the mouth carry the legs!

The celebrities here are: Paolo Carrai, who greets you at the entrance, is the heart and incarnation of the Casalinga: attentive, entertaining, he possesses a ready wit, is affectionate and hospitable; in the hall, Andrea Bartarelli manages the public relations, always smiling, brisk, snappy, with a sharp and unmistakable voice; Cristina Bartarelli, Andrea’s sister, has a serene and attentive eye, leadership and organizational skills; a group of fantastic collaborators able to delight all customers fast, always joyfully, which explains why, sometimes, the queue to get to eat at La Casalinga reaches the corner of the next street, and if guests inside do not hurry, those in line remain waiting outside.

Therefore, arm yourself with patience to enter. It is an experience to savour and not overlook!